Tuesday, March 26, 2013

Road Trip, Day Two

Travels with Amanda:

Our intent was to visit the Prairie Tallgrass Preserve, outside Pawhuska, before we left Oklahoma.  I have been intrigued by it, since first learning of it some time ago.  After viewing a recent documentary on the Dust Bowl, I was more determined to see the prairie as God had intended it.  Plus, Amanda might get to see a real live buffalo (which, for some reason, are now referred to as bison?), in the flesh.  The weather, however, did not cooperate.  It was foggy and misty, with a temperature in the low 40's.  We decided not to heed the advice of my home state's most noted native son, Will Rogers, who was quoted as saying "If you don't like the weather in Oklahoma, wait a minute."  We headed East.  All was not lost, however, as we did have a Plan B.



We endured a wet ride throughout Eastern Oklahoma and into Arkansas.  There wasn't much traffic, so that was not the problem.  I have made this drive before, and recalled the spectacular scenery of the Ozarks, a topography that my largely Florida-raised daughter has not seen often.  We were foiled in this endeavor, as it rained all the way to Little Rock.  I might add: we did cross the Arkansas River at least three more times that day.  On each occurrence, it did actually have water - lots of it - flowing.  So, I guess my mother was just looking in the wrong place for that.  

Plan B was to visit the Clinton Presidential Library in Little Rock.  Since we're both history nerds, this seemed a good place to appeal to our natures.  Besides, Amanda had been a child in the era that would be exhibited in this museum, so I knew that the information presented would be a novelty to her.  

I confess: I had not been into Little Rock before.  Our tour took us down this charming hipster-like area adjacent to the river (yes, that one again).  We did wonder why there was no one in the streets, since it was St. Patrick's Day.  Maybe bars are closed on Sundays?  Never mind.  The Clinton Library occupies this spectacular point on the banks of the river and is fronted by a beautifully restored brick building, which now houses a School of Public Policy, named after, you guessed it.  The Library itself exhibited each year of his Presidency separately.  I was fascinated; I remembered most of the political stuff and much of the world events.  We chatted about many of them.  The building was airy and open, offering views of the various galleries and a park leading to the river.  I'm glad we stopped; it broke up the day and gave us the opportunity to talk about all sorts of interesting people, events and times.  I have now seen three such libraries: this, in addition to Kennedy's and Ford's.  The fact that I live in the same city as another one (Carter's), that I have yet to visit, makes me feel a tad chagrined.  

The land between Little Rock and Memphis, while not as flat as that stretch I hit two days before in Louisiana, is not all that interesting.  I have been to Memphis for work often.  It hardly ranks among my favored cities.  In fact, were it not for its proximity to our plans for the next day, I would have gladly driven around the place.  

For Amanda, the Big Thrill was to cross the Mississippi, something she had only done in a plane.  Yes, that is one big river.  For me, I am fascinated by this river every time I see it.  I think of Jefferson's Purchase, Mark Twain, all the times I have read about Huck & Jim, Gateway to the West, commerce, how vital it was for both sides in the Civil War, massive floods and some mediocre Tom Cruise movie, in which the climactic scene was filled on a bridge leading to one of its islands.  I cannot possibly do it justice.    

So, we got off the road, followed our maps, only to encounter a big ass detour (say that any way you like), until we arrived at our destination:


Graceland was closed.  We arrived at this spot after visiting hours.  You can scarcely imagine our disappointment.  (Forgive me for being facetious; I have been to Monticello, Biltmore and Mount Vernon and long to see Sagamore Hill and Hyde Park.  I would not spend a nickel to go to Graceland).  Next door, I was stunned to find this hotel.  In front, there was a strip mall with about eight stores, each selling memorabilia in honor of whatshisname.  The only words that came to mind were ones attributed to H.L. Mencken, long ago: "No one ever lost money underestimating the intelligence of the American people".  For Amanda, transplanted Southern sorority girl, hipster New Yorker, school teacher, this must have been the greatest cultural shock of her life. 

I am unkind.  I know many regard Elvis as the greatest artist of all time.  By the time I was aware of him, he was a bad actor in worse movies who cranked out an occasional 45rpm recording from these films that, inexplicably, sold millions.  Maybe I was too young to get it, but, I just never got it.  My apologies to those who do.  

We found our hotel, anchoring a mall in the wild suburbs of Collierville.  I had promised to take Amanda to a Grisanti's, which was a restaurant we frequented in the early 90's when we lived in Raleigh (kids ate free on Tuesday nights).  It was a sad day when they closed, since I lost the free meals and they lost a fun night out.  She was excited!  She texted her sister to tell her where we were going!  Oh, and they're closed on Sundays.  Since shopping malls are surrounded by a plethora of chain restaurants, we did not go hungry.  We just made an early night of it.  The next day was the one we had both been anticipating.  

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